The day started with an excellent breakfast with huge variety, and after gulping down some fresh fruit and more brioches we pedaled slowly away from the gorgeous lakeside hotel. The ride had a beautiful setting and everyone was taking it slow because of late night and because it was our last day together. The course was flat, easy, and hot, but beautiful with fruit plantations, rice, vineyards, and orchards all along the way. As we rode we wound along a unique, one lane road that twisted and turned through huge rice paddies for miles, with no real rhyme or reason to its course. Occasionally we had to pull over to let a car or tractor pass, but for the most part we had the little ribbon of fresh pavement all to ourselves. Occasionally we saw villas or farms along the road, and whenever the road rose for an overpass we could see a nuclear power station in distance. Eventually the rice paddies came to an end as we crossed the Po River, and promptly hit some shallow climbs as we entered the scenic Monferatto region (home of Barolo, Nutella, Hazelnuts, and truffles). Ruth immediately called it a day after the first climb and rode the rest of the way in the van with Massimo (“It’s too darn hot out there!”). We stopped for lunch at top of a climb at the nicest restaurant we’d eaten at yet, run by a friendly, elderly Italian woman. By this point we were all sweaty as can be and unbelievably hot, so the cool restaurant (and the chance to wash our faces) was a welcome relief. We were given a variety of appetizers (small egg-cakes, champagne-juice aperitif, and of course loads of bread and water) before being served an excellent main course. I had a fantastic rice, bean, and ham dish panissa, while Lib had a squash/pumpkin taglietella, and once again Eduardo had an espresso and an Italian beer (as he did at every stop). The rest of the ride was just hot hot hot. Everyone agreed to take it slow and stick together, and we cruised until we got near the farm we were staying on for the final night and the small climb that took us to the top of the hill it was on. Unfortunately, at this point Libby’s chain decided it was done with the trip. It had been giving her trouble all week: ghost shifting, falling off, skipping teeth, and in general being a pain. Libby had tried to have the guides work on it, but they never seemed to find the problem with the bike and kept trying to adjust the derailleurs, thinking they were the problem. This time, however, Hendrick realized it was the chain that was broken and that she wouldn’t be able to ride it in the current state. After sitting in the hot sun for 20 minutes trying to fix the chain by hammering on it with two rocks, we continued on with Libby in her smallest gear and under strict orders to pedal smoothly, not shift, and above all not to stand up while pedaling. We finally reached the top of the climb, where everyone else was waiting for us, and told them to go on to the end as we again tried to fix the chain. (Libby meanwhile was insisting that she would walk the final 4km with her bike – she was going to finish this trip, darnit). All in all it had been a rough day for Libby, with the shifting problems which got worse as the day went on, the endless heat, a total lack of sleep due to the mosquito bites covering her, and even a couple bee stings. Finally Massimo arrived with the van and (like a pro rider) she was given a spare bike. Hendrick went off to chase down Eduardo, who was at this point the only person insane enough to do the 13 mile extra loop (I had promised I’d do it with him, but after Libby’s bike problems and the heat I reconsidered). Libby and I rode in together to the farm, which was a beautiful villa on top of a hill that provided all the food they served at the inn. We dropped our bikes off, went up to our charming room, and Libby cried a little from the stress of the day. (Lib here: I am going to interject a little here after being likened to Mount Vesuvius – a volcano that simmers until a huge eruption. The heat was well over 100 degrees, I had a bee sting to my shoulder, 20 plus mosquito bites per leg, a rash on my leg, and all week I’d known the bike had a problem, and that it wasn’t an issue with knowing how to use the Campagnolo shifters as the guides kept suggesting. SO when I reached the hotel I might have exploded a bit.) We showered, and then changed into swim trunks and headed down to the pool where the party started. The wine purchased at the winery was enjoyed as we all lounged in and around the pool, thankful that we had made it after one long week of riding. We had so much fun sharing stories and laughing. After two or so hours at the pool Eduardo finally showed up after finishing his extra loop. He looked terrible and gladly joined in on the celebration. We stayed at the pool nearly four hours in all, until with five minutes before dinner, we all ran up and changed. We had a delicious white truffle mousse, beef, pasta, fresh fruit with gelato and regional Barolo wine. Everyone continued to chat and tell stories all throughout the dinner and late into the night, and our guides said multiple times that this was the best ending to a tour they’d experienced due to the camaraderie.  As dinner finally wound down our hosts brought out sugar cubes soaked in a mixture of fruit flavorings and 100% alcohol (boy that burned), and of course espresso. Some members of the party even daringly tried a grappa digestif. Then, right before everyone headed to bed and the party broke up, it was time to award the tour capo. This was the group cycling cap, which had been given each night to one member of the group who had shown particular character or done something extraordinary during the day. As this was the final night, the capo ceremony was especially important as it was an overall award for the entire week, and the person to whom it was given would keep the cap.  In this case it was unanimously handed over to Libby, for her handling of adversity both today and through the whole week with a smile.

With the capo awarded, it was off to bed as we all said goodbye one last time. The group was such fun that it was hard to see them go, and Libby especially was sad as she said goodbye to a group of women who shared her interests and with whom she’d had such a great time. We all exchanged contact information, though, and then headed off to bed.