It was time to leave the majestic walled town of Siena through the Porta Romana Gate and head south through the Crete Senesi (which translates into Senese Clays). The landscape drastically changed to a light brown undulating soil lined with the occasional row of cyprus trees. There was a substantial climb before Asciano and some rollers before turning for Il Molinello where we stopped for olive oil tasting and lunch.
Crete Senesi
We gathered around a large table while the guide taught us how to properly heat the olive oil with our hands, sniff it, and sip it. Baskets of focaccia and bread were brought to the table so we could sample the goods and we were given a powerpoint on the appropriate terminology to use when sampling, which included words like: almond, astringent, artichoke, grass, fruity, harmonious, and hay. We all felt so… cultured. We self heated the first sample, sipped it, and pronounced it the most amazing olive oil to have ever crossed our lips. You just can’t get oil like this in the US. It was at this moment the guide interrupted us to inform the group that this was infact cheap, store bought oil olive. Feeling like total boobs we moved on to sample two. I am sure there is a lesson in there about presentation and expectations, but it’s too funny that the lesson was lost on me. We gathered in a nearby room for lunch. We had sun dried tomatoes, grilled eggplant, spicy peppers, boiled beets, pasta, coffee, and wine. It was, like every eating experience we have had in Italy, decadent.
We remounted our trusty Bianchi steeds and headed toward our final destination of San Quirico D’Orcia. Undulating hills were the theme of the ride and it was perhaps my favorite ride so far. The descents were smooth and winding the climbing always brought with it a spectacular view. Not wanting to miss out despite the protest from my quadriceps, I opted for the extra loop to the Renaissance town of Pienza. There was quite a little stinker of a climb on the way there. The town was the birthplace of Enea Silvio Piccolomini who would later become Pope Pius II. From the edge of the central town square we looked out on the Val d’Orica and Giuanfranco pointed out Mount Amiata.
Pienza
The rolling hills and descent back to the hotel were welcomed. There was one final climb back into San Quirico d’Orcia in which I found myself off the back and with barely enough energy to pass an elderly Italian woman biking with panniers. It was definitely time for a rest.
Since only family read this you, you all know dad has been sick for some time. While at the Duomo in Siena I lit a candle that he would finally be at peace and during the time I was riding through the Val d’Orcia, he found peace after so many years of suffering. Hearing the news of his passing was difficult and I will spare the details. I stayed in the hotel room and was grateful for Nina’s friendship. Giuditta had plates of proscuitto, Italian salami, breads, and pasta delivered to the room. Normally grief causes me to lose my appetite, but after such a long day on the bike, the food was so welcomed as were the hugs from Nina and Giuditta. They were so sweet and took good care of me.
Nina and I headed down to the local bar where she explained in broken Italian that my dad had passed and that he loved making lemoncello. They brought out two glasses of lemoncello to toast and a glass of Fernet Branca (we tend to drink it at Christmas and, more importantly, I love seeing the first time people try it- sorry Nina). We toasted to my dad, the best guy I will ever know and all of the good times we had together.
My flights were rearranged to Saturday which left me with one more day in Italy, but I wasn’t sure I would be up for riding the following morning. It was a restless night with a lot of tears and a large headache.
A Toast to Dad