Day 6

The day started very early as we met with our guide in North Bend to equip for our rock climb. We drove to Little Si and hiked part of the trail to a rock face. Our guide is originally from Switzerland and spends part of the year in Washington running his store and guiding trips to Rainier and Baker and part of the year in Switzerland leading trips up Matterhorn, Mont Blanc and Eiger. Steven soaked up every detail of this man’s conversation while privately making plans for us to join him at Mount Baker next year and in Switzerland for an epic adventure in two years. The instructor taught us the basic knot ties, harness information and how to belay. He then scurried up the rock face in a spider-man style motion to establish the top rope. Before we knew it he was back down the rock and continued his conversation. He was more than thrilled when he found out that we are newly weds and stated that he thinks the trust involved in rock climbing to be a perfect metaphor for the trust involved in marriage. The fact that I would be holding the rope that kept Steven safe on the rock was beautifully poetic to this mountain man. I think for Steven it was a bit terrifying. Steven was the first one up the 40 foot face. I was very proud of him. Rock climbing is awkward. You have to trust that the rope will catch you, that your feet can hold on the rock, and that your hands can cling to the tiniest bumps in the rock. Once you realize to trust your partner and the rope you can focus on the rock and your path up it. Steven and I are both terrified of heights so the most rewarding part of the climb is reaching the top and being able to look down and around. Once you have reached the top you realize that you are safe and it is a definite adrenaline rush. We managed three different climbs with the middle climb being the most difficult and the last climb being the tallest at nearly 80 feet. By the end of the climbs we were sore and worn out. Our guide Martin was excellent. A well seasoned pro, he didn’t have any of the cockiness that his skill would allow him to have. He was encouraging and made one feel successful even while splayed against the rock with legs and arms jetting out in different angles quivering. More impressive, he could swarm up the face in seconds to where you were stuck, and give you tips on foot placement and “smearing” (using the flats of your feet to grip the rock where there are no holds) all while clinging rope-less to a spot you would swear there was no purchase to be had. On the hike back he and Steven talked about “football” (soccer), cycling, and of course mountaineering equipment. Steven was ecstatic to learn that the shop was having a sale that very day, as several equipment representatives had given our guide their demo models to try.

Steven belaying down the face

Libby at the top of the smaller face

While driving back into North Bend Steven began second guessing his career as a software engineer, and idly wondering about the qualifications for becoming a mountain guide. I dutifully listened while he basked in his dream. Once in the store I quickly realized that Steven had forgotten about the excel spreadsheet that he had created to calculate our budget and every expense as he drooled over top of the line carbon poled tents. Meanwhile, I eyed a used pair of hiking boots that were $30 and happened to be my size. They turned out to be very high end boots, and Martin was excited to sell them, seeing as they belonged to his daughter who grew very quickly and hardly wore them. With my feet now safe for the rest of the trip, I walked over to find Steven just as Martin suggested that they go out to the sidewalk to assemble the tent. While I admit it was quite a deal on the tent and very impressive looking, a tent designed for hurricane winds weighing a mere two pounds might be a tad overkill for the forests of Indiana. I also realized that with his love of high tech gear and his lingering dream of being a mountain guide, Steven might walk out of the store with that tent. It was at that point that I had to be the voice of reason, pull him out of the store and put a slight dent in his dream. I did assure him however that he is a brilliant software developer. We went back in the store to thank Martin and tip him for the wonderful climbing lesson. With a slightly deflated ego I took Steven to the local bar for a burger and homemade potato chips.

The town of North Bend has a mountain charm to it. After discovering the Twin Peaks was filmed in North Bend and Snoqualimie I have an unusual desire to watch it even though I have never previously heard of it. While there we also found ourselves in the middle of a neat tradition: the town was shutting itself down in preparation for a block party. All the streets were closed off, the shops were all putting up sidewalk displays, and bands were gearing up for what looked like a great party. Unfortunately, we had to turn down our guide’s invitation to stick around, as we had a reservation to keep four hours away.

We had an epic drive to the Olympic National Forest for our stay at the Kalaloch Lodge. The Lodge offers both cabins and rooms, both of which have beautiful views of the ocean. We decided to stay in the lodge itself, however, after reading about one couple’s experience with racoons while staying in the lodge’s cabins. The lodge has the smell of a summer camp cabin and dining hall. It is rustic but perfect in it’s simplicity especially considering that it is perched overlooking the ocean. The only problem Steven has is that not only is there no cell phone service, there is no internet either.

Out in the middle of nowhere,

Ocean-side Libby and Software specialist Steven

Travel question of the day: Where does the word honeymoon come from? And why did our travel agent mention that we’re on ours to every place we stay? Awkward. Currently there’s a heart shaped caramel brownie on my night stand.